I got my December Saveur magazine in the mail the other day, and the cover trumpeted both filet mignon, and “The Secrets of French Sauces”. Sauces are my favorite culinary field. I thought to myself: “Self: check out the sauces article. Maybe it’ll add some info to that book by Peterson you keep reading.” Lo and behold, the article was written by James Peterson himself.
I urge everyone interested in sauces to check out this issue. He’s a modest fellow — he refers to his highly acclaimed book (and one of my top-3 cooking must-have books) Sauces as “A book I wrote in 1991″. That “book” is an amazing history, from the salty/fish garum sauces of Rome, to the basic mother sauces of French cuisine, to instructions to develop an almost infinite variety of flavor based on those mother sauces, and beyond. In short, Peterson is one of my culinary idols, and I was pleased to see Saveur conned him into writing the centerpiece of the December issue, without once referring to the holiday season.
The thick, rich, very red sauce on the cover is a bordelaise, so named for the Bordeaux region of France, which is probably the most well known red wine producing region in the world. Peterson provides a classic recipe for bordelaise, over filet mignon. I had to make it, of course. Peterson has always been a tinkerer, however, and I’ve jazzed up his recipe by using flat iron instead of fillet, for some extra beefy flavor, with a few bordelaise substitutions as well. I served the steak and sauce over a braised root vegetable foundation, as a nod to the season.

Winter sizzle