Flat Iron Steak with Herb Butter and Pomme Frites

Filed Under (Photography, beef, dinners, flat iron steak, food, french, frites, herb butter) by petermarcus on 13-08-2008

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We’ve done a couple steak dishes, a flat iron done mojo style, and a more classic filet mignon with béarnaise and fried matchstick potatoes.

I sorta played with both a little more this time and made a simple grilled flat iron steak, with an herb butter inspired by Thomas Keller’s recipe from his Bouchon cookbook, and classic french fries as described by Anthony Bourdain in his Les Halles cookbook.


sizzle sizzle

Happy Bastille Day!

Filed Under (Photography, chocolate, desserts, dinners, food, mousse) by petermarcus on 14-07-2008

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For every modern nation, there is a line drawn in the sand at which historians believe it was impossible to reverse the course of events. For the US, the birth of our country could have been acceptably marked at the passage of the Stamp Act of 1765, or the Boston Massacre in 1770, or the Tea Party in 1773, or the first shots fired at Lexington and Concorde in 1775. Washington’s final victory over Lord Cornwallis on October 17th, 1781 is hard to argue with. John Adams, himself, assumed that July 2nd, the day the Continental Congress approved the Declaration of Independence, would be celebrated in history. In fact, New York abstained that day as it didn’t have authority to agree to independence (and wouldn’t get that authority for a week), and Jefferson immediately insisted that a paragraph condemning the Slave Trade be removed. July 4th was the day the revised edition was approved again (with New York still abstaining), and the whole thing was finally sent to the printer.

For France, there were similar points in history. Financial and propaganda support of the American Revolution may have given legitimacy to the anti-monarchy ideas in the minds of the French everyman. In May, 1879, Louis XVI reconvened the Nobility, Clergy, and Commoners to hear their greviences — in a sense, limiting the monarch’s limitless authority. There was the June 20th Tennis Court Oath by the commoner leaders declaring they would not separate until a constution was established. In early July, a constitution was being written with, if not the blessing, then at least the knowledge of Louis. The arrest of Louis on August 10, 1792, or his beheading on January 21, 1793 may also be considered as final as Washington’s victory.

However, the storming of the Bastille, on July 14th, 1789, is the act historically considered to be the point of no return. Though the Bastille once housed political prisoners, it was being decomissioned, and there were only seven prisoners there at the time (four convicted of forgery, two lunatics, and an actual aristocrat who might have been there for reasons of insanity). Ironically, if it had been July 4th, 1789, one other notable aristocrat, the Marquis de Sade, would have been released, but he had been transferred. Given the lack of prisoners, the mob was most likely looking for weapons, not free thinkers.

Open treason against the monarch, whether solemnly approved and printed, or blatently stormed, is hard to retreat from.

For the US, after the Revolution, we shipped the grouchy Royalists and Loyalists out of the country. Some went back to England, some to Canada or the other colonies around the world. When the War of 1812 came a couple generations later, we had few serious Royalists left in the States, and our nation was more or less united against the possibility of British re-acquisition. France, on the other hand, did not have the luxury of shipping out its Royalists. France was France, had been for a thousand years, and those who lost the Revolution were killed or exiled or went into a grumbling, muttering underground. France would see the Revolution, the Reign of Terror, an Empire, another Republic, another Empire, another Republic mixed with flavors of an Empire, and a couple dips back into monarchy of various nuances. And that was just in the first 80 years.

So, Happy Birthday France! Perhaps not the modern nation as it exists today, but definitely France the people, the birth of the idea.

——

I’m a culinary Francophile, even though I attempt to fusion its techniques with world cuisine. I’m not a dessert person, however. Most baking is chemistry and science, the lack of a scant tablespoon, the loss or addition of an ingredient on a whim, can completely destroy a recipe. Mousse, however, is pretty forgiving. Mostly whipped cream and whipped egg whites for the base, the flavoring can be just (just!) chocolate, or a menu of other items. I’ve gone fairly classic here with a dark chocolate syrup with egg yolks. A bit of playing, substitution, and improvisation doesn’t hurt this dessert, which is why it’s one of my favorites.

après vous

Sriracha Glazed Scallops with Bacon Mango Risotto

Filed Under (Photography, Recipes, bacon, dinners, food, mango, shellfish) by petermarcus on 16-06-2008

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Grouper is not the only ingredient that’s seasonal in Florida right now. You can’t walk the neighborhood without a mango hitting you on the head. When I lived on the beach in the Tampa Bay area, my neighbor had a mango tree over the fence that divided our property. In June, I’d find dozens of mangoes (I don’t personally believe that mangoes ends in ‘es’ — where did that ‘e’ come from? Does one write of tangoes with one’s amigoes? But my spell-checker, and wikipedia says it’s so, therefore who am I to debate spelling) sitting in my lawn. My current neighbors aren’t as well stocked with mango trees, so I bought a few from my local market. I also found some local scallops on sale, U-12s, so I grabbed a few of those. Mango and scallops might be considered Caribbean, but I wanted to do some Asian spice, so I went for a sriracha-glaze, with a mango-bacon risotto.

As fate would have it, What’s For Lunch Honey is having a mango-themed challenge until July 14th, which is actually Bastille Day in another coincidence which is probably completely irrelevant to mangoes. But, it’s enough coincidence that we’ll play along and have a lot of fun.

Is Mango the next Tango?

Duck breast crepes, with apples and feta

Filed Under (Photography, Recipes, crepes, dinners, duck, feta, food, mushrooms, orange duck, poultry, sauces) by petermarcus on 22-04-2008

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This is probably more of a fall or winter recipe, rather than a sunny spring one. But, I was in the mood for duck breast, and duck goes well with fruit. A lot of fruits like orange and cherry are a bit overdone, so I went with apples instead, but cooked them in butter and orange juice for a least a nod to à l’orange. I wanted a rich, rich sauce to be able to hold up to the duck, so I used beef and mushroom stocks with a couple kicks. Wrapped in crepes with some exotic mushrooms and feta, and the richness was definitely on target, and it was tasty.

more recipe and tons of pictures

Blue Crab Bisque, with Shrimp Stir Fry

Filed Under (Photography, bisque, blue crab, dinners, food, shellfish, shrimp, stir fry) by petermarcus on 09-04-2008

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We live on a canal, which in turn feeds into the mouth of a river, which then feeds into a lagoon, which makes its way to the Atlantic. Which is a roundabout way of saying I could sail around the world from my backyard and return, except I don’t think our canal is deep enough to take the draft of a world-cruising sailboat, even if I could afford one. Our canal does, however, host plenty of salt water blue crab, free for the eating.

I love making a more or less classic bisque, from fresh caught crab straight through to the plate. The many steps involved just kind of make it more real.

Blue Crab Bisque and Shrimp Stir Fry follow. And yes, crabs have been boiled alive to create this post

Key Lime Shrimp and Scallops

Filed Under (Photography, Recipes, caribbean, dinners, food, scallops, shellfish, shrimp) by petermarcus on 31-03-2008

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One of my seafood stores had nice big scallops for sale, 8 to a pound, and I knew I already had key limes and cilantro at home, so I kinda went with a Latin/Caribbean feel.

More pictures and Recipe

Cajun Chicken with Risotto

Filed Under (Photography, Recipes, cajun, chicken, dinners, food) by petermarcus on 26-02-2008

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Last night, I finished work late and didn’t want to go to the store, so I kinda whipped something up based on what ingredients I just happened to have in the house. It worked out in the end, but there were a few back-and-forth ideas, and one side that just didn’t work out.

I had: boneless-skinless chicken breasts, celery, onion, roasted red bell peppers (in a jar), a single egg, olive oil, butter, one large potato, risotto rice, homemade chicken stock, half a bottle of sparkling wine, sour cream, some key limes left over from the pompano, and a lot of spices.

The original plan was a cajun chicken over a crisped potato pancake, but I tried to be healthy and used egg white instead of a whole egg to bind the potato, and it just fell into a mess trying to fry it up in a pan. I’ve had potato pancakes most of my life (Polish/German background not to mention I was raised Catholic — good meatless Lent dish), and I’ve made them zillions of times, but things were just not binding last night. So, instead of salvaging a soupy mess of scorched pan/liquid potato-oil for something that was just going to be dressed with the main course, I changed tack and decided to make a semi-instant risotto thing I do.

The basis of most Cajun food is a “trinity”, similar to a French mirepoix. I once heard that the French Acadians substituted bell pepper for carrots after settling in Louisiana because it was tough to grow carrots in the warm, swampy soil. I don’t know how true that is, but trinity is onion, celery, and bell pepper, diced or chopped. I like using roasted red bells instead of green because they’re sweeter, and they look prettier.
More Pictures and recipe here

Braised Beef Shortribs

Filed Under (Photography, Recipes, beef, braised, dinners, food, shortribs) by petermarcus on 24-02-2008

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So. Braising.I’ve hit a lot of classical cooking in the last few months or so, trying to add some knowledge to my cooking improv. However, most of my experimentation has been in sauces, from mother- to derivative-, with just a bit of French technique.

I recently bought Tom Colicchio’s Think Like a Chef (he of the Top Chef hosting). Colicchio, though a four-star chef, started from no classical training, and never got around to the CIA. So, his cookbook is not necessarily about classical recipes, but more about techniques of classic cooking. Since I tend to ignore recipes, but am intrigued by techniques, I think his is the most interesting cookbook I’ve read in the last year.

One of his big techniques as a meat-centric chef is braising. I have never really braised, at least as a formal technique, and real meat like beef, as opposed to the quicker (yet still classic) techniques of seafood.

Salt Crust Pompano

Filed Under (Photography, Recipes, caribbean, dinners, fish, food, pompano, salt crust) by petermarcus on 23-02-2008

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I’ve been wanting to try a salt-crust meal for a few years now. Iron Chef (the original Japanese version) used the technique often, and several of my latest cookbooks mentioned the technique, but at 9am this morning as I was keeping my 14 month old daughter from banging a toy into my 4 month old son’s soft-spot, Tyler Florence was doing a salt-crust steak on the Food Network, and it got me salivating. So I made up my mind to try it with whatever fresh fish I could find.

I hit the local seafood shop. There was a wonderful sign stuck in the ice in the display case: “Whole Yellowtail Snapper”, but there was just empty ice chips. I asked if they had any more yellowtail, and after a few loud, roof-raising shouts into the back, echoing back to the display, it was determined that they were, alas, sold out of yellowtail. Yellowtail is my favorite snapper, in my mind it is nearly 1000% better than the ubiquitous (and frequently mis-labeled) American Red Snapper. But again, alas and alack.

However, there was locally caught fresh and whole pompano, which isn’t necessarily in the same league as yellowtail snapper, but it is more rare as it’s a seasonal fish (and we are right in the middle of season here in February in the central Florida Atlantic coast), so I grabbed one of those, $15 for just under 2 pounds, whole and un-gutted.

After the fish store, I hit the local Latin produce mart, where most of the staff speaks only Spanish, yet the customers range from the local Latin community to restaurant owners to Asians to Muslims, all looking for quality produce. It’s as melting-pot as you can get in this coastal town. I picked up fresh cilantro, key limes, banana leaves, and onions for under $5.

It was indeed my first attempt, and I don’t think I fully did what I wanted, but it was quite tasty, and I learned enough from this attempt to improve.

Fortunately, Christey and I were in the mood to document. As usual, I don’t really like tossing out a complete recipe as much as describing technique. So, here we go:

More pictures and technique